Around The Atlas
Plaza Mayor in Lima, with the Cathedral and colonial-era architecture

Peru: The Complete Travel Guide

🗓️ Best time: May–Sept (dry season)💰 Budget: $35–60/day⏱️ Ideal trip: 12–16 days⛰️ Style: Adventure / Culture

Machu Picchu gets all the attention, and it earns it — but Peru's real depth is in the Sacred Valley, the altitude of Cusco, and the alternative treks that see a fraction of the Inca Trail's crowds. This guide covers a realistic itinerary, acclimatization (genuinely important here), and how to actually get an Inca Trail permit before they sell out.

When to go

May to September is the dry season and the best time for trekking, though it's also the busiest and coldest at night in the highlands. The shoulder months of April and October trade a little more rain for noticeably thinner crowds.

Realistic costs

Budget $35–45/day backpacking with hostels and local menus, or $70–100/day with private transport and mid-range hotels. The classic 4-day Inca Trail runs $650–800 per person including permits, porters and guide — book 5–6 months ahead, permits are limited to 500 people/day including staff.

Acclimatization matters here

Cusco sits at 3,400m — most altitude sickness cases on this trip happen in the first 48 hours in Cusco, not on the trail. Spend at least 2 full days there before any trek, hydrate more than feels necessary, and consider starting in the slightly lower Sacred Valley instead.

A 14-day route

Lima (1 night) → Cusco & Sacred Valley (4 nights, acclimatize) → Inca Trail or Salkantay trek (4 days) → Machu Picchu → Aguas Calientes (1 night) → Cusco (2 nights) → Lima (2 nights).

Recommended Places

The specific spots worth the detour — not sponsored, just the ones I'd send a friend to.

Viewpoint

Machu Picchu Mountain (not the citadel)

Book this add-on ticket separately for the classic postcard view from above.

Food

San Pedro Market, Cusco

Juice stalls and a real local lunch (menu del día) for under $3.

Hidden gem

Moray & the Maras salt pans

Often skipped, easily combined into one half-day from the Sacred Valley.

Neighborhood

San Blas, Cusco

Cobblestone artisan quarter, best coffee shops in the city.

Experiences

Book an experience

Classic Inca Trail Trek (4D/3N)

Permit, porters & guide included · from $650

Salkantay Trek (5D/4N)

Higher pass, fewer crowds, no permit needed · from $320

Sacred Valley Full-Day Tour

Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero · from $35

See all bookable experiences
Real moments
"Machu Picchu at sunrise, after four days of walking to get there, doesn't look like the postcard. It looks better."

The first night in Cusco nobody warns you about

What 3,400m actually feels like when you land straight from sea level — full story →

Missing my Inca Trail slot by one email

Why I now book permits the day reservations open — full story →

Read more expedition stories

Where to Stay

Selina Cusco

San Blas · social hostel, great acclimatization base.

$28 /night
Check availability

Casa Andina Sacred Valley

Sacred Valley · mid-range, slightly lower altitude.

$85 /night
Check availability

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel

Aguas Calientes · splurge, closest to the ruins.

$260 /night
Check availability

Getting There & Around

Fly into Lima (LIM) then a short domestic flight to Cusco (CUZ) — the overland route takes 20+ hours and isn't worth it for most trips. From Cusco, the train to Aguas Calientes (PeruRail or IncaRail) is the only way in besides trekking; book it alongside your Machu Picchu entry ticket, both sell out in high season.

See the full transport guide →

Want the full deep dive?

Cusco acclimatization, Inca Trail permits, alternative treks, and a 14-day itinerary beyond the standard loop.

Read the Peru Travel Guide →